A Blog from Colorado Adventure Blog
Colorado Adventure (CA):
What exactly does it mean to be an IFMGA guide, and what did you do to earn your accreditation?
Dale (DR):
The IFMGA stands for International federation of mountain guide associations and it is the international organization that’s sets standards for mountain guides. To become an IFMGA guide in the US you have to get certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) in Rock, Alpine and Ski disciplines. In addition you have to have an 80 hour wilderness first aid course and Pro 2 Avalanche training. The whole process is about 120 days of training plus all the prerequisite training. A motivated person can get the process done in about 4 years assuming they are already a good skier and climber. It’s the highest certification level a mountain guide can get.
CA:
Why do you recommend visitors to Colorado hire an AMGA guide to climb and/or ski?
DR:
Aside from obvious risk management reasons the main reason to hire an AMGA certified guide is that they will provide an excellent experience. The certified guide is trained to be efficient while focusing on the overall client experience. There are good guides that are not certified but by seeking out one that is you are guaranteed that they have passed a minimum standard.
CA:
2019 is the AMGA's 40th Anniversary. How long have you been with the AMGA? What do you see in the next 40-years for guiding and the AMGA?
DR:
I have been working for the AMGA since 2006 and started as an instructor for guide programs and have now worked my way up to Technical Director. I still get in the field over 100 days and year and really thrive on the adventure of training guides. The AMGA has come a long way in 40 years and the next 40 will be mostly about refinement of our education program. In addition, the AMGA is working hard to diversify the people that are becoming guides and hopefully in the near future we will see more woman and people from diverse ethnic backgrounds breaking through into guide roles.
CA:
Where does your climbing passion come from?
DR:
I grew up in small mountain town in Washington State and my dad kindled my passion for adventure in the mountains. He was not a climber but encouraged me to become a skier at a young age and was always supportive of my crazy adventures. As a senior in high school a good friend and I were getting deeper and deeper in to the backcountry while fishing and backpacking and one thing just led to another and we started climbing. Initially we were self-taught but quickly realized we need mentorship. Once I started climbing I never looked back and was addicted and using every spare moment to climb or train for climbing.
CA:
What are some of your favorite places to rock climb in Colorado? And ice climb?
DR:
Colorado is a very diverse climbing state and it’s hard to pick out my favorites but I would say for rock climbing I love the Flatirons in Boulder which have all types and difficulties of climbing. For ice climbing the SW corner of the state in a little town called Ouray has the best ice.
CA:
Describe your ideal day to climb. (ie. perfect weather conditions, what you’re wearing, what you had for breakfast)
DR:
The perfect day of rock climbing starts with an egg and avocado breakfast smothered in Siracha followed by a nice hike with my girlfriend and dog up into the Flatirions where we will seek out a cliff in the shade. Its 74 degrees out and we can climb in shorts and a T-Shirt but if we are sitting around a light jacket is needed. Our dog will keep the squirrels at bay and after we are completely cooked from climbing a taco and margarita dinner will cap things off!
CA:
Do you have any gear recommendations for people getting their start? And any advice?
DR:
The perfect place to start is at the climbing gym. Our favorite is Evo Rock and Fitness in Louisville as its only 5 minutes from our house and it has a brewery right next door. Take an intro to rock climbing class and once you are ready to venture outside look for and AMGA certified Rock guide to show the ropes. To start out you don’t need much gear. A helmet, Harness, shoes and chalk bag will get you going and then you can work with your guide and what the next steps and gear should be.
CA:
Are there any misconceptions about climbing you’d like to clear up?
DR:
The funniest things are how some of the climbing slang was coined. Free climbing is actually climbing with a rope and Free Soloing is climbing without a rope. So that is one of the biggest misconceptions when I describe climbing because people think I crazy when I say I free climbed something because they think it was without a rope but in fact I rarely climb without a rope and only on very easy terrain.
CA:
Your dog seems to be a big part of your life, does he ever go on hikes or climbs with you?
DR:
Indie the pup goes on tons of hikes and to the base of climbs with us but she mostly stays on the grounds. She has gotten herself into a few predicaments trying to scramble around to find us up on a climb. So far she has figured out how to get back down. She is actually a pretty good scrambler and does not seem to have any fear.
CA:
What are you up to when you’re not scaling a mountain?
DR:
I love back country skiing and mountain biking and if not directly trying to scale and rock climb or mountain that is likely where I will be.